Finally, the Rock comes back to Jongeup

Jongeup? Why Jongeup I hear you ask. Well, the answer is simple: Jongeup was the scene of my ingnominious KTX (Korea Train Express) departure from Chungcheongnam -- the province which is home to Gochang, a small city just south of Jongeup known for its historic sites and yogwan (motel) owners who have a passion for stealing expensive moutain bikes.

But I digress.

Saturday's journey started inauspiciously, with Korea Rail officials refusing to allow my new Cannondale steed to board their precious Saemaeul train in Yongsan. After much deliberation and good ol' fashioned stubborness, the good guys triumphed and my voyage into Korea's oft-maligned southern region commenced.

The rail journey was relatively quick, just over three hours in total, made all the more pleasureable by two Korea lads, who at the urging of their mother, proceeded to offer me handfuls of dried squid ( a national passion in Korea) and any other snack food they could lay their hands on. I responded in kind by teaching them the time-honoured game of "knuckles" and took great pleasure in watching the older of the two pound his brother's hand into mince meat.

I hope those boys will cherish that game as much as my brothers, and sisters for that matter, hopefully still do.

Disembarked in Jongeup and it was pouring rain. But with lyrics from Billie Myers' "Kiss the Rain" in mind (can't explain why that obscure little song from 1999 popped into my head), I saddled up and hit the road, all the while debating whether to risk visiting Gochang or avoid the dump and any curses that might be placed on my bike by an outraged motel owner whom I will soon be facing in court.

After a moment of deliberation, I elected to head for Mokpo and 133km of pleasant riding through lush green mountainous countryside later, the port town of Mokpo -- also known as Korea's gangster paradise ("They been spending most their lives living in the gangsta's paradise. We keep spending most our lives living in the gangsta's paradise." Gotta love Coolio.) -- was reached.

I ended up spending the next hour or so searching for the passenger ferry terminal, finding not one but five of the facilities -- a fine little Chinese puzzle waiting to be solved tomorrow. My motel is the standard shady affair, costing 30,000 won as the location is "primo." Dinner / breakfast tomorrow, is nothing worth mentioning but I'll do it anyway, tuna, bread, cheese, sultanas, carrot juice, canned peaches and Belgian waffle cookies.

Thoughts for the day:

1. Mokpo is surrounded by mountains and a hell of a town to cycle into. Mountain after mountain after mountain awaits the intrepid cyclist.

2. When buying a bike, road or mountain, spend the money on getting a good frame, it's absolutey worth it.

3. How much tuna can a human being consume? And am I wanted by the tuna FBI for mass murder?

4. Yeongwang is a very pretty little town -- wonderful mountain setting. Very Twin Peaks -- without the David Lynchesque weirdness.

5. Mokpo burghers seem very tough, friendly, but tough.

Tomorrow: Life in a Southern Town.